Tuesday, July 12, 2011

BIG CANYONING SEASON

its about as far from ice season as it gets right now.

+30c days, high humidity and temperatures at 2500m getting to around 20c makes any ice formation, even in Japan, impossible.

BUT theres still stuff to do. BIG stuff that like ice climbing, few other people are doing, far from the over-crowded outdoor ‘adventure’ meccas that is all many ever see of Japans wilderness.
over the summer we will be running some of the winter climbing areas as canyons – same place, through the looking glass.

waterfalls that we climb in winter we now rappel. ice sheets we edged around we can now swim across. all the down jackets and goretex pants are now replaced by wetsuits and boardshorts. the sub-zero nights huddled in frozen tents are now spent warm, swinging in hammocks. that frozen lost kingdom of winter ice comes alive as

these are serious canyons, just as comitted and remote as the climbing in winter. amazing places few ever get to see. like the winter version most are 2 or 3 day undertakings, with solid approaches and total self-sufficiency – not like the pussy 1hr trips some companies are selling as ‘canyoning’.

our interest was sparked with clients asking what the gullies and waterfalls were like in summer。
so we had a look and i will tell you now, they are amazing.

$$$$$
cost is 30,000 yen per person per day with the usual discounts for more than 3 people or 3 days. yeah, its a bit expensive – but for it you get the real deal, in remote places, with qualified guides, specialized gear and ‘A-list’ access. no crowds of punters guaranteed.

like always, this covers all the pro gear, guiding, permits and training.
what you need to bring is:
  • hat
  • minimum 4 liter water carrying capacity (approaches are hot and dry)
  • trail running shoes (please no hiking boots or ‘special’ canyoning shoes)
  • large day pack (40L is good)
  • change of clothes AND warm layer (you dont want to be wet all the time)
  • several dry bags (real ones, no garbage bags)
  • hammock (mexican/parachute hammocks will do, but ones with bug mesh are much better)
  • food for each day (we will provide stoves – no fires)
  • sun cream
  • bug cream
  • bear bell (no joking)
be prepared for lots of walking, lots of rappelling, lots of swimming.

Monday, July 11, 2011

SO YOU THINK YOUR WINTERS ARE REALLY EXTREME?

What the..!?
Yep, there’s nothing like ice climbing.
Whether you just want to try it or are training for bigger things, no one forgets their time ice climbing.
Some say rock climbing is a religion. Which then makes ice climbing a cult.

In Japan???
You bet. The country’s covered in water falls and much of it hits well below freezing during winter.
Lots of peaks in japan sit above 2000m, which means it can be relatively mild at valley level and perfect higher up.
Whats more, theres often good access and no crowds. If you’ve come from North America or Europe you may be pleasantly surprised.


Isn’t it insanely dangerous???
It can be. But not in this case.
We climb only in areas we are well experienced in, using only the best equipment designed specifically for the purpose, taking every safety precaution we know of.
Your safety is our priority, but there are some accepted risks that we thoroughly discuss in detail and minimize.



What’s it gonna cost then?
That depends on where, what, for how long and a few other things.

Honshu: Yatsugatake, Kaikomagatake, Amitabadake
30,000 per person per day*

Hokkaido: Sounkyo
33,000 per person per day (minimum 2 people/2days)

*discounts for multiple days and groups of 3 or more

This covers:
l  Boots (specialized for climbing)
l  Snowshoes (when needed)
l  All hardware (helmets, crampons, ice tools, protection, ropes etc)
l  Guiding (instruction, belaying, logistics, opinions and experience)
l  Lunch (high calorie, western, hot, nutrient dense, coffee/tea, vegetarian etc if requested)
l  Permits/fees (camping, wall fees)

This doesn’t cover:
l  Snacks
l  Hotel accommodation
l  Transport (except Hokkaido transport to/from Sounkyo-roadhead)
l  Insurance
l  Extra meals

*a note on insurance
Ice climbing is not the easiest thing to insure, especially for foreign visitors.
To keep things reasonable we suggest climbers get their own insurance through IHI bupa, a company that specializes in travel insurance for climbers and expeditions.
Rates are competitive and policies easily arranged online.

Cold weather camping gear can be arranged at 5000 per day.

Should I really be doing this??
If you can do 3 pull ups, snowshoe with a day pack on and don’t mind the cold, then yeah.
Don’t be fooled by the stuff on YouTube – those guys are pros.
If you’re new to ice climbing we start on a super-safe ice wall, then head out to natural forming icefalls when you’re ready.
Think though: its not like comparing indoor ‘rock’ walls with the real thing. Man-made ice walls are just as steep and difficult as the natural ones, just they are safer and have cafes at the bottom.

Who the hell are you?
Japaniceclimbing is a small operation run by seasoned guides.
Front man is Ed Hannam, known throughout Japans guiding community for his independent and pro-active attitude.
Ed’s background consists of 5 years canyoning guiding in Japan, 12 years of climbing trips to the great ranges in China, Kyrgyzstan, Pakistan, Nepal and Sikkim, expeditions into Laos, the Gobi, Iran and Tibet plus extensive experience in Central Asia.
Ed trained in Nepal and Pakistan as a high altitude guide and instructs climbing guides in Sichuan, China.
Career highlights include ice first ascents in China and Tibet and expeditions to K2, the Pamir and the Kunlun.
During the 2011 Great Tohoku Disaster Ed co-directed a small specialist logistics team working in the worst hit and most remote areas of Iwate, Miyagi and Fukushima prefectures, being awarded a special commendation from the mayor of Rikuzantakada.
His henchmen all have extensive ice, alpine, backcountry and rope-specific guiding backgrounds.

So how do we make it happen?
Contact me.
If you’re already heading over here skiing you’re most of the way there.
Tell me how many people, how many days, where you want to go and anything else I should know  (beginners, training, vegan, freaked out by heights etc).
Then I will get back to you with the details.
All you need to bring is:
l  Snacks (high calorie but go easy on the sugar)
l  As many gloves as you have (seriously, I carry 4 or 5 pairs)
l  Several pairs of socks (even the best ice boots need padding)
l  Warm clothes (windproof outerlayers, warm hat…)
l  Day pack
l  Sunglasses
l  Camera
l  Thermos


WINTERS COMING!!

whatever the time of year, winter is coming. either doing it or getting ready to do it, theres a way to make this season the best youve had yet.