Monday, July 11, 2011

SO YOU THINK YOUR WINTERS ARE REALLY EXTREME?

What the..!?
Yep, there’s nothing like ice climbing.
Whether you just want to try it or are training for bigger things, no one forgets their time ice climbing.
Some say rock climbing is a religion. Which then makes ice climbing a cult.

In Japan???
You bet. The country’s covered in water falls and much of it hits well below freezing during winter.
Lots of peaks in japan sit above 2000m, which means it can be relatively mild at valley level and perfect higher up.
Whats more, theres often good access and no crowds. If you’ve come from North America or Europe you may be pleasantly surprised.


Isn’t it insanely dangerous???
It can be. But not in this case.
We climb only in areas we are well experienced in, using only the best equipment designed specifically for the purpose, taking every safety precaution we know of.
Your safety is our priority, but there are some accepted risks that we thoroughly discuss in detail and minimize.



What’s it gonna cost then?
That depends on where, what, for how long and a few other things.

Honshu: Yatsugatake, Kaikomagatake, Amitabadake
30,000 per person per day*

Hokkaido: Sounkyo
33,000 per person per day (minimum 2 people/2days)

*discounts for multiple days and groups of 3 or more

This covers:
l  Boots (specialized for climbing)
l  Snowshoes (when needed)
l  All hardware (helmets, crampons, ice tools, protection, ropes etc)
l  Guiding (instruction, belaying, logistics, opinions and experience)
l  Lunch (high calorie, western, hot, nutrient dense, coffee/tea, vegetarian etc if requested)
l  Permits/fees (camping, wall fees)

This doesn’t cover:
l  Snacks
l  Hotel accommodation
l  Transport (except Hokkaido transport to/from Sounkyo-roadhead)
l  Insurance
l  Extra meals

*a note on insurance
Ice climbing is not the easiest thing to insure, especially for foreign visitors.
To keep things reasonable we suggest climbers get their own insurance through IHI bupa, a company that specializes in travel insurance for climbers and expeditions.
Rates are competitive and policies easily arranged online.

Cold weather camping gear can be arranged at 5000 per day.

Should I really be doing this??
If you can do 3 pull ups, snowshoe with a day pack on and don’t mind the cold, then yeah.
Don’t be fooled by the stuff on YouTube – those guys are pros.
If you’re new to ice climbing we start on a super-safe ice wall, then head out to natural forming icefalls when you’re ready.
Think though: its not like comparing indoor ‘rock’ walls with the real thing. Man-made ice walls are just as steep and difficult as the natural ones, just they are safer and have cafes at the bottom.

Who the hell are you?
Japaniceclimbing is a small operation run by seasoned guides.
Front man is Ed Hannam, known throughout Japans guiding community for his independent and pro-active attitude.
Ed’s background consists of 5 years canyoning guiding in Japan, 12 years of climbing trips to the great ranges in China, Kyrgyzstan, Pakistan, Nepal and Sikkim, expeditions into Laos, the Gobi, Iran and Tibet plus extensive experience in Central Asia.
Ed trained in Nepal and Pakistan as a high altitude guide and instructs climbing guides in Sichuan, China.
Career highlights include ice first ascents in China and Tibet and expeditions to K2, the Pamir and the Kunlun.
During the 2011 Great Tohoku Disaster Ed co-directed a small specialist logistics team working in the worst hit and most remote areas of Iwate, Miyagi and Fukushima prefectures, being awarded a special commendation from the mayor of Rikuzantakada.
His henchmen all have extensive ice, alpine, backcountry and rope-specific guiding backgrounds.

So how do we make it happen?
Contact me.
If you’re already heading over here skiing you’re most of the way there.
Tell me how many people, how many days, where you want to go and anything else I should know  (beginners, training, vegan, freaked out by heights etc).
Then I will get back to you with the details.
All you need to bring is:
l  Snacks (high calorie but go easy on the sugar)
l  As many gloves as you have (seriously, I carry 4 or 5 pairs)
l  Several pairs of socks (even the best ice boots need padding)
l  Warm clothes (windproof outerlayers, warm hat…)
l  Day pack
l  Sunglasses
l  Camera
l  Thermos


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